Compendium of Designs (Tekagami moyō setsuyō) - Umemaru Yūzen

A woodblock print from the Edo period pattern book 'Tekagami moyō setsuyō', featuring two distinct kimono designs with floral and phoenix motifs.

This woodblock print originates from the 'Tekagami moyō setsuyō', a pattern book produced by the artist Umemaru Yūzen during the Edo period. Such volumes functioned as catalogues for kimono tailors and their clientele, providing a visual reference for contemporary fashion trends and decorative motifs. The print displays two distinct kimono designs, each presented in a flattened, schematic format that allows for the clear observation of the garment's construction and surface ornamentation.

The left design features a pale yellow ground adorned with a floral cart, incorporating chrysanthemums and other seasonal blooms. The right design utilises a deep purple ground, featuring a phoenix motif alongside various household objects. The inclusion of handwritten Japanese text provides specific instructions or descriptions regarding the patterns, reflecting the practical nature of these books as professional tools for artisans. The lines are precise and delicate, characteristic of the woodblock printing techniques employed for mass-produced pattern books of the nineteenth century.

These designs demonstrate the aesthetic priorities of the period, where the surface of the kimono served as a canvas for complex iconography and seasonal symbolism. The composition is strictly ornamental, prioritising the display of the pattern over the representation of the human form. By documenting these designs, Umemaru Yūzen preserved the visual language of Edo-era textile production. This print offers a view into the intersection of commercial fashion and traditional craft, illustrating how pattern books facilitated the dissemination of style across urban centres in Japan.