The Courtesan Sugatami of the Tsuruya Brothel - Isoda Koryūsai

A refined ukiyo-e woodblock print by Isoda Koryūsai depicting the courtesan Sugatami and her attendants in elaborate seasonal kimono.

This woodblock print by Isoda Koryūsai depicts the courtesan Sugatami, a figure associated with the Tsuruya brothel. The work belongs to the series Hinagata wakana no hatsu moyō, which translates to A Pattern Book of the Year’s First Designs, Fresh as Spring Herbs. Koryūsai was a prolific artist during the mid-Edo period, known for his contributions to the ukiyo-e genre and his focus on the fashion and daily lives of women in the Yoshiwara district.

The composition features Sugatami at the centre, flanked by two attendants. The figures wear elaborate kimono adorned with seasonal motifs, reflecting the series title. The artist employs a refined line quality to define the folds of the garments and the delicate features of the subjects. The colour palette remains restrained, relying on soft greens, muted oranges, and black ink to create visual balance. The background is left largely empty, a common technique in ukiyo-e to direct attention toward the figures and their attire.

Koryūsai often produced prints that functioned as fashion plates, documenting the trends of the time for a public interested in the aesthetic choices of high-ranking courtesans. The hexagonal patterns on the central figure's outer garment contrast with the flowing, organic shapes of the foliage motifs on the lower robes. This print provides a glimpse into the visual culture of eighteenth-century Japan, where the intersection of art and textile design was a primary concern for printmakers. The inclusion of calligraphy in the upper right corner identifies the subject and the series, maintaining the traditional format of the Japanese print. This piece is an example of the technical precision achieved by Koryūsai during his most active years in Edo.